More Rivers (part 1)

Refreshed and relaxed and ready to move on, we left Green Turtle on a misty morning and headed for Kentucky Lake. The next section involved heading up the Tennessee River, which flows into Kentucky Lake and is bordered by the Land Between the Lakes (a huge peninsula and state park) and dozens of anchorages. It was strange to be out on open water again, and we were finally able to use our autohelm as we cruised along. Though freezing, we enjoyed fall colors and sacrificing our pumpkins to the river gods.

After two days working our way up Kentucky Lake, the next few days involved more river travel, misty cloudy rain, us doing anything to try and stay warm, anchorages, a smidge of sunshine, a smattering of warm welcomes at cozy marinas with friends, and did I mention trying not to freeze? Now in the Tennessee River proper, fall colors were up close and amazing and we continued to enjoy watching turtles, herons, bald eagles, and the occasional white pelican. Although we were going up river, the current was minimal while we were near the lake, but unfortunately built as we traveled closer to the next dam.

Our last anchorage on the Tennessee River before we escaped the current reminded us that we only mostly know what we’re doing, and that anything can happen at any time. The island we tucked behind had crazy current passing through the channel. We cautiously set our bow anchor and tossed out the stern anchor (to keep us straight with an opposing breeze), and quickly discovered how to not anchor in current. I let a bunch of line out on the bow anchor- just to be safe- without adjusting the stern, and just after we turned off the engine the boat did a 180 and we were stuck flipped around. Quietly freaking out, we tried to turn the engine back on so we could turn back around and re-set, and the starter button decided to not work. More freaking out, I quickly rigged the engine hotwiring kit sent to us by the amazing Rich Marsh, and zapped the engine back to life. With the boat turned around and with mighty strength, I pulled up the stern anchor and found that we had caught an old waterskiing handle with the other end of the line still stubbornly attached to the bottom. It had held us pointed in the wrong direction and I victoriously cut it free from the bottom to be put in a trash can, far away from other unsuspecting anchors. We re-set, and spent the rest of the night freezing. We dreamt of warmth, and Emily ended up boiling a rock so she could hold it and be warm. Have I mentioned it’s been freezing?

The next morning we woke up to a healthy coating of frost on deck, and continued the last final slow agonizing upriver push. We were approaching the Pickwick Lock, river on our side and Pickwick lake on the other. We crawled along at about 3 knots, and our spirts rose with the water level as we finally entered the gigantic lock and went up 50 some feet to a world of no more upriver.

Pickwick Lake in the sunshine and fall colors was beautiful, and I spent the trip over to the entrance of the Tombigbee waterway picking out which one of the hundreds of shore side mansions on a cliff I would live in. Upon entering the waterway an hour later, we were back into narrow canals, and we headed for Aqua Yacht harbor.

Here we met back up with Tim, Ramie, and Mike, and we jumped into the car to go visit the Shiloh Battlefield. This was the site of one of the bloodiest Civil War battles, and taking place in 1861 was a major turning point for the war. A several-day confused battle ended up with the Union taking control of the railroads and of the river system that we are now traveling, and the Confederacy losing their best general. At the cost of almost 25,000 lives, it turned the tide and helped the Union later win the war. We toured the cemetery and some of the sites of specific battles, and watched a film on the course of the battle. Though a somber visit, it was a fascinating piece of history to learn about.

The following morning, we had planned to leave with our friends and carry on, but the universe had other plans for us. While making breakfast, I noticed the flame of the stove gradually diminish as I tried to turn it up, and with dismay I found that we had run out of fuel. Granted it had lasted for two months of constant use, but now we had a problem. No fuel, no ability to make food, no way to boil rocks to keep us warm. Unfortunately it was a Sunday morning in the bible belt, and it would be another two hours before stores started opening. I spent a lot of time on the phone trying to find the denatured alcohol that we needed, and finally found a distant Walmart with our fuel. Road trip!

This accidental morning ended up being one of my favorite mornings ever. When life changes the plan, there’s no use fighting it- enjoy the ride! We were able to take the courtesy car, and upon getting in the car noticed that Mike had left his hat on the hood and we happily rescued it. We enjoyed pop tarts and cinnamon rolls (from Mike) on the drive, and in Walmart found battery powered Christmas lights and scented candles; our boat is now extremely cozy. We then came across a Little Caesars that had just opened, and this being the first opportunity to get a Hot-n-Ready since Michigan, we thoroughly enjoyed pizza and crazy bread at 10 am. Back at the marina, we gave the keys back and mailed our postcards, and the harbor master gave us a stack of postcards that they weren’t selling anymore- score! Too late in the day to make any progress, we proceeded to a nearby anchorage that was one of the most pristine spots we have found. It was perfectly calm and the scenery was amazing, and we got to relax for the rest of the day and have cucumbers and hummus for lunch. Perfect day? I think so. Thank goodness for happy accidents!

P.S. Mike has since been reunited with his hat :)

Our pumpkins' final moments on Kentucky Lake